Thanksgiving 2010: Rustic Bread Stuffing with Sausage, Cherries and Pecans

Cook's Illustrated (November/December 2010)

Neither of us grew up eating stuffing that was cooked inside a turkey.

Rather, we both come from dressing families, where a wet mixture of bread, stock and vegetables is poured into a dish and baked casserole-style.

But we were still intrigued by this recipe, whose aim is to create a stuffing that tastes as if it was cooked inside the bird, infusing it with turkey flavor.

We were up for the test.

So what's the secret to adding substantial turkey flavor to the stuffing?

Cooking the stuffing with browned turkey wings on top.

True story:

It looks ridiculous, with big turkey wings piled on top of the dish, but that's how you do it. Simply discard the wings prior to serving.

Cook's Illustrated gives three variations of this dressing: Sausage, Dried Cherries, and Pecans; Leeks, Bacon, and Apple; and Stuffing with Fresh Herbs. We opted for the sausage variation (are you surprised?).

When we wrote up our advice for how to plan a huge meal and not lose your mind, we referenced the fact that we had burned a dish that we had made for this meal. And this was it! 

We didn't pay close enough attention to the stuffing while were juggling other dishes in the oven, and it blackened on bottom.  Nevertheless, there was still plenty to taste and guests ate just about every bit that wasn't charred (and part of it that was!).

Because we overcooked the stuffing, we can't fairly judge this dish. From what we tasted, it was a really good stuffing. The explosion of turkey flavor didn't really come through for us, but maybe it will for you. Our guests said they liked the addition of cherries to the dressing, which was something most of us had never had before.

In general, our Thanksgiving hearts lie with cornbread dressings.  They're what we grew up and what we crave at Thanksgiving. 

What about you? Are you a dressing or a stuffing person?  In or out of the bird?  Let us know in the comments.

 

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Rustic Bread Stuffing with Sausage, Cherries and Pecans
Cook's Illustrated (November/December 2010)
Subscribe to Cook's Illustrated

(This photo: America's Test Kitchen)

Serves 10 to 12

NOTE: Two pounds of chicken wings can be substituted for the turkey wings. If using chicken wings, separate them into 2 sections (it’s not necessary to separate the tips) and poke each segment 4 or 5 times. Also, increase the amount of broth to 3 cups, reduce the amount of butter to 2 tablespoons, and cook the stuffing for only 60 minutes (the wings should register over 175 degrees at the end of cooking). Use the meat from the cooked wings to make salad or soup.

2 pounds (20 to 22 slices) hearty white sandwich bread, cut into ½-inch cubes (about 16 cups)
3 pounds turkey wings, divided at joints ​(see photo) (see note)
2 teaspoons vegetable oil
1 pound bulk pork sausage
4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter, plus extra for baking dish
1 large onion, chopped fine (about 1½ cups)
3 celery ribs, chopped fine (about 1½ cups)
2 teaspoons table salt
2 tablespoons minced fresh thyme leaves
2 tablespoons minced fresh sage leaves
1 teaspoon ground black pepper
2½ cups low-sodium chicken broth
3 large eggs
1 cup dried cherries
1 cup pecan halves, toasted and chopped fine

1. Adjust oven racks to upper-middle and lower-middle positions and heat oven to 250 degrees. Spread bread cubes in even layer on 2 rimmed baking sheets. Bake until edges have dried but centers are slightly moist (cubes should yield to pressure), 45 to 60 minutes, stirring several times during baking. (Bread can be toasted up to 1 day in advance.) Transfer to large bowl and increase oven temperature to 375 degrees.

2. Use tip of paring knife to poke 10 to 15 holes in each wing segment. Heat oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until it begins to shimmer. Add wings in single layer and cook until golden brown, 4 to 6 minutes. Flip wings and continue to cook until golden brown on second side, 4 to 6 minutes longer. Transfer wings to medium bowl and set aside.

3. Return skillet to medium-high heat and add sausage; cook, breaking sausage into ½-inch pieces with wooden spoon, until browned, 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer sausage to paper towel–lined plate, leaving rendered fat in skillet.

4. Heat butter with rendered fat in skillet over medium heat. When foaming subsides, add onion, celery, and ½ teaspoon salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are softened but not browned, 7 to 9 minutes. Add thyme, sage, and pepper; cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add 1 cup broth and bring to simmer, using wooden spoon to scrape browned bits from bottom of pan. Add vegetable mixture to bowl with dried bread and toss to combine.

5. Grease 13 by 9-inch baking dish with butter. In medium bowl, whisk eggs, remaining 1½ cups broth, remaining 1½ teaspoons salt, and any -accumulated juices from wings until combined. Add egg/broth mixture, cherries, pecans, and sausage to bread mixture and gently toss to combine; transfer to greased baking dish. Arrange wings on top of stuffing, cover tightly with aluminum foil, and place baking dish on rimmed baking sheet.

6. Bake on lower-middle rack until thickest part of wings registers 175 degrees on instant-read thermometer, 60 to 75 minutes. Remove foil and transfer wings to dinner plate to reserve for another use. Using fork, gently fluff stuffing. Let rest 5 minutes before serving.

Bread Stuffing with Leeks, Bacon, and Apple

Follow recipe for Bread Stuffing with Sausage, Dried Cherries, and Pecans, substituting ¾ pound bacon, cut into ½-inch pieces, for sausage. In step 3, cook bacon in skillet until crisp, 8 to 10 minutes. Transfer bacon to paper towel–lined plate and pour off all but 2 tablespoons bacon fat. Proceed with recipe from step 4, substituting 2 leeks (white and light-green parts halved lengthwise, washed, and sliced thin) for onion, 3 Granny Smith apples (peeled and cut into ¼-inch dice) for dried cherries, and omitting pecans.

Bread Stuffing with Fresh Herbs

Follow recipe for Bread Stuffing with Sausage, Dried Cherries, and Pecans, omitting sausage. After browned turkey wings have been removed from skillet in step 2, add 6 tablespoons butter to skillet and proceed with recipe from step 4, substituting 3 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley leaves for dried cherries and pecans.