Gourmet (November 2000)

It was a nasty, cold, damp night in New York City last winter. We were meeting our friends I. and A. for dinner at the Red Cat in Chelsea. A sprint through the chilly rain was followed by a too-long wait in the artificially hot, overcrowded entryway of the restaurant. We were finally deposited at our table, and the host was about to turn away. But I. put her hand on his arm before he could leave. "Excuse me," she said, "but we're going to need an emergency order of tempura green beans."
I.'s order was heaven-sent. The beans were snappy, crispy little bites of hope, restoring our good cheer and paving the way for a delightfully long dinner with friends.
When we were putting together the small-plates menu for dinner with Zach's mom B., we needed something fresh and green, but we wanted to continue the dinner's sophisticated, fun, finger-foods mood.
We knew just what we needed: an emergency order of tempura green beans.