from The New York Times
Bittens, we have done you a great disservice.
How in the world -- how in the world?? -- is it possible that we've never talked to you about Keens?
Keens is a steakhouse in New York City. But if you ask us, it's not just a steakhouse, it's the steakhouse. Open since 1885, Keens is housed in a gorgeous series of wood-paneled rooms on West 36th St. in midtown Manhattan. The neighborhood around it has changed, as all neighborhoods do -- most of the restaurants around Keens today are Korean BBQ joints.
Back in the day, Keens was a gentlemen's-only restaurant and bar. Men who frequently ate there could store their tobacco pipes there. More than 90,000 people ultimately were on the roster of the Pipe Club -- men like Teddy Roosevelt, Babe Ruth, Albert Einstein and J.P. Morgan -- and today all of the walls and ceiling of the restaurant are covered with pipes.
The ceiling at Keens (photo from Keens)
Anyway, it's the food at Keens that's truly outstanding. There's nothing in the world quite like a rare Keens porterhouse -- perfectly red in the middle and sizzling and crisp on the outside -- with an icy dry martini.
Oh, and some creamed spinach.
You have to get the creamed spinach.