Bon Appétit (September 2011)

Cooking in an unfamiliar kitchen can be a challenge.
You're not sure where things are, or what equipment is on hand. When it's time to buy ingredients, you don't know what staples may already be in the kitchen. There are odd utensils, leftover spices and wondrously unusual cooking tools.
But there's also something amazingly fun about this experience, which often includes the need to improvise and often to just make do with what you've got.
Each Labor Day, we retreat to the North Carolina coast with a big group of friends, to our friend Drew's family's beach house. It sits in a beautiful spot right on the water. There's absolutely nothing to do there, and that's why we all love it. We play Scrabble, read and stare at the water. It makes for a wonderful and relaxing vacation.
And we eat, and eat, and eat, taking turns cooking dinner each night. There were tacos and enchiladas, and some of the best shrimp we can remember eating in a long time. This year, there was also a surprise wedding (!), but that's a story for another time.
On our night to cook, we went simple with the main event: pork tenderloin with an orange-oregano gravy, sautéed corn off the cob and fresh green beans. But we decided to go fancy with dessert, opting to make this Devil's Food Cake with Black Pepper Boiled Icing.